SERVICE DRESS COAT
UNIFORM
WINTER USAF BLUE SHADE 84
SERVICE DRESS
1949 - 1965
After 1 July 1952, Army OD uniform was no longer
authorized for US Air Force personnel. The new service dress uniforms, USAF
Blue Shade 84, would remain the same for a number of years. The Air Force Chief
of Staff, General John P. McConnell, 1965 to 1969, lead the way that changed
the style and design of the Air Force service dress uniforms. The change would
remain the same to the mid 1990s. In the mid 1990s the McPeak Service Dress was
introduced which was followed by the USAF Retrofit Service Dress uniform.
The blue USAF Shade 84 service dress coat was also known as the winter coat. The material for the winter coat is all wool serge, 15 or 18 ounces. The coat is a semi-drape, single-breasted, four-button model with pleated breast pockets and lower blouse pockets. Optional recommended fabrics included: all wool gabardine, 13 to 15 ounces; all wool (Venetian) gabardine, 13 ounce; and all wool barathea, 15 ounce, for officer’s only.
Figure 1: From AFM
35-10 and private collection.
USAF Blue Shade 84
Service Dress Coat.
Figure 2: USAF Blue
Shade 84 Service Dress Coat. Note pockets and the shade of blue.
Lower pockets were
always fondly referred to Captain Kangaroo pockets.
The buttons used on Air Force uniforms are oxidized silver-color medal of suitable composition and weight, circular, and slightly convex with raised rim, the Seal of the Department of the Air Force in clear relief against a horizontally lined background. The button measurements are: 45 ligne at 1 1/8 inches; 36 ligne at 9/10 of an inch; 30 ligne at ¾ of an inch; 25 ligne at 5/8 of an inch; and 20 ligne at ½ of an inch.
Figure 3: From AFM
35-10 and private collection.
Button design and
sizes found on USAF uniforms.
Proper Fit Instructions: The service coat should always
be fitted when the undergarment shirt and tie is worn. The coat is a semi-drape
model slightly suppressed at the waist and never formfitting. A well-fitted
service coat will have ease in the shoulders, chest and underarm. The sleeve
should extend to ¼ inch from the heel of the thumb when the arms are hanging
naturally. The length of the coat is proportioned to the height of the figure.
A standard guide is that the bottom of the coat should be fingertip length when
arms hang naturally and hands are slightly cupped.
The trousers are to match the coat in color USAF Shade 84. The material for the winter trousers is all wool serge, 15 or 18 ounce. Trousers are full cut, straight hanging, and without cuff. When pleats are worn they will face in towards the fly. Rear pocket tabs are required on all blue service dress trousers. Optional recommended fabrics included: all wool gabardine, 13 to 15 ounces; all wool (Venetian) gabardine, 13 ounce; and all wool barathea, 15 ounce, for officer’s only.
Figure 4: From AFM
35-10 and private collection.
USAF Blue Shade 84
Service Dress Trousers.
Proper Fit Instructions: Trousers should be trim fitting
without bunching at waist or bagging at seat. Standard stock trousers come in
extra short, short, regular, long, and extra long inseam length. Personnel
should familiarize themselves with one of the mentioned sizes which best fits
their physical dimensions. Prescribed length is without a break in the crease
and with the bottom of the trousers barely resting on the shoe in the front.
The belt required for service dress will be for winter
and summer. Will be of USAF Shade Blue 89, of woven cotton webbing material
with silver color metal tips. Buckles are plain satin finish, nickel
silver-color medal. The prescribed width of the belt is 1 ¼ inches. The
prescribed buckle is approximately 1 ½ inches wide and 2 inches long. The end
of the belt will not extend beyond 1 ½ inches of the buckle. Optional fabrics
will include elastic and plastic materials in blue. Suspenders are an optional
item but must be of plain solid blue material. Suspenders must be worn
underneath the coat and not be exposed at any time.
The required undergarment shirt to be worn with the blue
winter service dress is USAF Blue shade 120 cotton poplin or 126 cotton oxford
cloth. The blue shirt worn under the winter coat is the one-pocket civilian
type (no shoulder loops). It may be of poplin material, with medium pointed,
non-flaring collar or of oxford cloth, with modified spread collar. The old
style blue poplin shirt with two pockets may be worn until no longer services.
Sleeves should extend to the heel of the thumb so as to permit approximately ¼
inch to extend beyond the sleeve of the coat. The 10.5 ounce all wool flannel
blue shade 84 outer garment shirt was authorized but not required to be worn in
colder climates with winter service dress. This would have been the darker
shade blue, two-pocket shirt with epaulettes authorized as an outer garment
with appropriate insignia.
The necktie required to be worn with the under garment
shirt is for winter and summer. The necktie for the service uniform will be
USAF Blue 84, four in-hand civilian type, unlined and constructed of all wool
tropical worsted fabric 8 to 10 ounces without design or sheen. Optional fabrics would include all wool,
synthetics, and blends thereof in tropical worsted, twill, or woven weave
without design or sheen.
Figure 5: From AFM
35-10 Blue Shade 120
cotton poplin or
Blue Shade 126 cotton oxford cloth.
The Service Cap and Flight Cap are both appropriate for
use with the winter uniform. The service cap is the visor type with dark blue,
¾ inch braid and a front chin strap of black leather. Material is wool serge,
blue, for winter and summer. Caps are packed with a medal packing grommet which
must be removed before wearing. The wearing of the service cap without the soft
rolled grommet is prohibited.
A lightweight service cap is also approved. A lightweight service cap of gabardine material is authorized for optional wear. It will be of the same basic design as the required service cap except the head band will be of an open mesh construction to give clear firm openings through the braid. Also as optional wear on all service caps, a rear chin strap of black leather.
Figure 6: From AFM 35-10 and
private collection.
USAF Blue Shade 84 Service
Dress Cap.
The required fabric for the service cap is Blue 84, 15 ounce
wool serge. However, optional fabrics were allowed as the cap was regulation
for both summer and winter. The optional fabrics are: all wool gabardine, 13 to
15 ounces; all wool (Venetian) gabardine, 13 ounce; all wool tropical worsted,
8 to 10 ounce; and all wool barathea, 15 ounce for officers only.
On the service cap, persons are distinguished by use of aluminum wire on the visor as follows: General Officer – black broadcloth covered visor embroidered in aluminum wire with the Air Force lightning, cloud and dart design identifying general officers; Colonels – black broadcloth covered visor embroidered in aluminum wire with Air Force lightning cloud, and dart design identifying colonels; and Officers, Warrant Officers and Airmen – black leather visor without design.
Figure 7: From AFM 35-10 and
private collection.
Top: General Officer -
Middle: Colonel (eventually will also be
lieutenant colonel and major) – Bottom: all officer ranks below
colonel.
The only USAF officer cap that changes in design is that of the USAF Chief of Staff or if the person also becomes the Chairman of the Joint Chiefs of Staff. In this case, the clouds with lightning bolts found on the visor also go around the band of the cap as well.
Figure 8: Private collection. USAF Chief of Staff cap worn by General Charles Gabriel.
Figure 9: Second USAF Chief of Staff Hoyt S. Vandenberg
wearing his appropriate service dress cap with
clouds and lightning bolts going around the band of the cap.
Private collection – Official USAF photo.
The flight cap is the overseas type with insert braid corresponding to the grade. Persons are distinguished by use of braid inserted on the flight cap as follows: General Officers – silver colored braid; Officers and Warrant Officers – silver color and blue brain in diamond pattern; and Airmen – blue braid. Material is wool serge, Blue 84, 15 ounce for winter and summer. As an option, Venetian gabardine is authorized for winter and summer, tropical worsted is authorized for summer and barathea material for both winter and summer.
Figure 10: From
AFM 35-10 and private collection.
Garrison cap, also
known as the flight cap and overseas cap.
Figure 11: Private
collection. Solid silver colored braid for general rank officer.
The shoes for service dress are low quarter, black,
laced, smooth or scotch grain leather, with plain or plain-capped toes, and
without perforations, buckles or straps. The upper part of the shoe is not to
exceed ankle bone height. Socks are of black wool, worsted, cotton, synthetic
type or silk, without decoration.
How the winter service coat uniform is worn. Uniform items: Headgear – service cap or flight cap, blue shade 84; Tie – blue shade 84; Belt – blue shade 89; Shoes – black; and Socks – black. Materials in the coat and trousers are to match. Blue shade 84 service coat with blue shade 84 trousers and blue shade 120 or 126 undergarment poplin or oxford cloth shirt. Blue shade 84 gabardine coat with blue shade 84 gabardine trousers and blue shade 120 or 126 poplin or oxford cloth shirt. Officers may use blue shade 84 barathea coat with matching trousers.
Figure 12: From
AFM 35-10 and private collection.
USAF Blue Shade 84
Service Dress Coat Uniform.
Figure 13:
Standing to the left. Second USAF Chief of Staff Hoyt S. Vandenberg
wearing the USAF
Blue Shade 84 Service Dress Coat Uniform.
To the right is
General Omar Bradley, USA. Private collection – Official
military photo.
ALL SEASON USAF BLUE SHADE
1084 AND 1549 SERVICE DRESS
1962 – 1969
The Summer Service Uniform Tan Shade 193 was no longer
authorized for use after 15 October 1965. To replace the summer tan uniform,
the US Air Force adopted the lightweight All Season Blue Shade 1084 uniform on
1 May 1962. The time between 1962 and 1965 was the transitional period in which
officers were to make the switch. The officer could retain and use the blue
winter material service dress but had to add the lightweight all season blue
service dress uniform for summer. The style and design of the all season 1084
service dress remained the same as its predecessor, the Blue Shade 84 Winter
Service Dress Coat Uniform. The main differences were the material which became
tropical worsted and a slight change in the shade of blue. Eventually, the all
season service dress uniform became the norm for year round. The winter
material Blue Shade 84 service dress could be used until they were considered
no longer serviceable.
Eventually, two types of material were used in the All Season
Blue 1084 Service Dress, a lightweight and a heavier weight in corresponding to
winter and summer. Both weights of material and uniforms were considered year
round. However, it was recommended that an officer possess at least two sets of
uniforms of each weight. The different weights could not be worn together.
Coats and trousers had to be matching weights. By 1967 Blue Shade 1549 was
introduced. Both shades of blue were acceptable and both were produced in
lightweight and heavyweight. The service dress cap shade of blue was to match
the uniform. The caps were also produced in 15 ounce or 18 ounce serge
corresponding to year round winter and summer.
Figure 14: The new
All Season USAF Blue Shade 1084
uniform worn by
Major General Harry M. Darmstandler.
The Tropical Blue
was the all season for summer light weight material.
GENERAL JOHN P. MCCONNELL
SERVICE DRESS
1969 – 1994
By the end of 1969, a major design change was introduced.
It was the first major design change of the uniform since its inception in
1949. Under the leadership of the USAF Chief of Staff, General John P.
McConnell, the darker shade of blue (1549) was made permanent, smaller lapels
were added and the two lower external large pockets were changed to hidden
pockets with the flap only showing. The replaced large external pockets were
always fondly called Captain Kangaroo pockets for those who remember the
Captain.
Figure 15:
Comparison of uniforms.
Top uniform is the
design prior to the changes under
General John P.
McConnell. Bottom is the design after the changes.
The most
noticeable changes are the shade of blue, smaller collars and lapels,
and the two large
external pockets became
internal with only
the flap showing. Captain Kangaroo pockets are gone
on the new design.
By 1975, and the changes introduced by General McConnell,
there was only one shade of blue authorized for the USAF Service Dress Uniform.
Blue Shade 1084 was totally phased out and Blue Shade 1549 was the only
acceptable shade of blue. However, the uniform continued to be made in light
weight and heavier weight material. All uniforms were considered to be year
round all season but the weights of material corresponded to winter and summer.
In addition, polyester blends were introduced which had an impact on the USAF
Service Dress uniform. By 1978, some terminology changed. The uniform was no
longer referred to as the all season blue but rather the “dark blue” service
dress uniform.
By 1986, insignia found on the service dress uniform
started to change. Silver or silver-oxide color was always the acceptable type
of insignia for service dress. High gloss insignia were now covered by
regulations. However, one could not mix the different insignia on the uniform.
If high gloss was used, all insignia had to be high gloss, same for silver or
silver oxide. This practice continued until the McPeak Service Dress Uniform became
regulation. At that point all insignia was to be high gloss. High gloss
continues to be the norm to present date.
Different shades and materials continued to change in the
hopes of improving the USAF Service Dress Uniform. By 1989 the service dress uniform
was available in dark blue shade 1578 in wool and polyester, tropical or
gabardine; 1598 polyester serge; and 1608 polyester and wool tropical weave.
Eventually there was a 100% polyester service dress uniform. Mixing of
materials was still prohibited and the cap would be of matching color to the
coat and trousers.
Minor changes to the service dress uniform started to
become common place. A type of material might be phased in and phased out before
anyone knew a change was being considered. One has to remember that for every
change to the service dress uniform there are wear testing dates, adoption
dates and transition dates for officers to comply. A lot of these dates overlap
and different items are used simultaneously until phased out or in one way or
another. At time, it is impossible to trace all the minute changes. Sometimes
there is a testing period but the change is not adopted. Sometimes there are
adopted changes with no transition periods because the change is so small, i.e.
changing a number on the nomenclature. At times, some items were slated to be
phased out through attrition. Unless one had the transcribed minutes from the
USAF Uniform Board, it would be impossible to list all changes and
variations. Variations may be found not
listed on this web site.
Figure 16:
Official French military photo – private collection.
USAF Chief of
Staff, General Charles A. Gabriel
wearing the
McConnell style service dress uniform at
an official French
military function.
GENERAL MERRILL A. MCPEAK
SERVICE DRESS
1991 – 1994
Figure 17: USAF
Chief of Staff, General Merrill A. McPeak wearing
his newly designed
uniform.
Private collection
– Official USAF Photo.
By far, the most controversial and unusual uniform within
the repertoire of US Air Force uniforms. The uniform was named after General
Merrill A. McPeak, the fifteenth Chief of Staff of the United States Air Force
- 30 October 1990 to 25 October 1994. Since the US Air Force separated from the
US Army in 1947, the US Air Force uniform evolved very little. General McPeak
felt the US Air Force uniform needed a long overdue change of appearance. In
1991, he ordered a change in the style and design of the service dress uniform.
The change in style was so profound; the uniform has since become identified to
the general. It was, by far, the most sweeping change in the USAF service
uniform since 1948 but became the Edsel of US Air Force uniforms.
The unveiling date of the new uniform was 31 October
1991. Wear testing was to be accomplished in 1992. The uniform was to be made
available to all officers by 1994. The issuing date of the new uniform was 1
October 1995. However, the old service style uniform still in use was also
covered by regulation and could be used up to and including 1 October 1999.
This meant a four-year transition period was allowed for officers to switch to
the new style uniform. However, the uniform started to appear publically as
early as 1992 during the wear testing period.
Normally, a transitional period in the US Air Force would
run without a hitch. By the end of the four year period, the officers would
have been given ample time to make the transition. However, once the uniform
was released, it became an immediate flop with the officers. Not very many
officers liked the new uniform. Some thought it looked too much like the US
Navy uniform while others thought it looked like and airline pilot’s uniform.
Whatever the discontent, the officers did not look forward to the transition to
the new uniform.
Many officers decided to wait to the last minute before
switching over to the new service dress uniform. They new there was wide spread
discontent among the officers in lieu of the new uniform. They felt if they
could avoid the change as long as possible there might be a chance that the new
uniform would be discontinued or dropped before the end of the transitional
period due to so much discontent. Another factor for consideration was that
General McPeak would probably not be the USAF Chief of Staff by the end of the
transitional period, 1999. The officers were hoping the wide spread discontent
toward the new uniform would convince the new Chief of Staff to countermand the
orders of his predecessor and discontinue its use.
The hopes and patients of the officers paid off. General
McPeak was no longer the USAF Chief of Staff after 25 October 1994. General
McPeak was replaced by General Ronald R. Fogleman on 26 October 1994 as the new
USAF Chief of Staff. During the tenure of General Fogleman’s leadership of the
US Air Force as Chief of Staff, the orders on the new service dress uniform
were countermanded and the General McPeak uniform was no longer considered
regulation.
The McPeak uniform was no longer regulation and the
transitional period was brought to an early immediate close. However, the old US
Air Force service dress uniform was not reinstated. Another new style US Air
Force service dress uniform was adopted which was much more acceptable to US
Air Force personnel. The old style US Air Force service dress uniform would
never be used again.
Just as the Edsel was a flop the McPeak uniform was a
flop as well. However, today the Edsel is one of the most sought after cars as
a collectible. Not many people bought or held onto the Edsel and, in time, a
rarity was created for the collector. The same is true for the General McPeak
uniform. Because the officers waited to the last minute to buy their new McPeak
uniforms, not many were sold. When the McPeak uniform was discontinued there
were not many in circulation. This has created one of the rarest US Air Force
uniforms to collect. In matter of fact, when a McPeak uniform is found without
the attached US Air Force insignia, most people do not recognize it as a US Air
Force uniform and think it belongs to the US Navy or a commercial airline
company.
Many high-ranking officers wore the McPeak uniform as
early as possible to show solidarity with the US Air Force Chief of Staff
especially if they were stationed in Washington, D.C. The wear-testing period
for the McPeak uniform was 1992. Many of the high-ranking officers, who
received their uniforms early, received them through Air Material Command as
Experimental Test items. Therefore, if a high-ranking officer’s uniform is
found it will probably be marked “Experimental Test” which creates a much more
sought after uniform to have in one’s collection.
The McPeak uniform was blue shade 1620 and was 55/45
percent polyester wool blend serge weave. Its equivalent counterpart in the
civilian world would have been the business suit. The coat is semi-draped and
single breasted with three buttons. As in a civilian suit, there was one left
breast pocket without a flap. There were two lower pocket flaps. The buttons
bear the old US Army Air Corps wings and star. Officer rank will be worn on the
lower sleeve as silver colored braid bands similar to the US Navy. The trousers
are of matching color and material.
Figure 18: From
35-10 and private collection. The McPeak Service Dress Uniform.
Intended to be
sleek and uncluttered. The new USAF service
dress uniform was
characterized as being stripped of unnecessary insignia.
No longer covered
by regulations were outer patch pockets,
epaulettes, names
tags and the officer’s
U.S. device on the
lapel.
Figure 19: Silver
rank bands for four star general.
Only the general
officer had the two-inch wide braid with clouds and lightning bolts.
Each band above
the general band was another star. Private collection.
The belt and buckle
remained the same as in the old style service dress except general officers may
wear a buckle bearing the wing and star design. The shirt under garment can be
any of the regulation long sleeve light blue styles with epaulets. The tie is
to be polyester herringbone twill, Air Force shade 1621. Footwear is the black
low quarter shoe without design or decoration and the socks are plain black.
The cap worn with the McPeak uniform was the service cap or flight cap. The
shade and material of the cap did not need to match the uniform. All regulation
insignia was to be high gloss.
Figure 20:
Regulation on the McPeak uniform, the general officer belt buckle
displayed the
wings and stars design. This style belt buckle was used for a
number of years by
generals before the McPeak uniform. Private collection.
Figure 21: The
button with the old US Army Air Corps
wings and star
adopted for the McPeak uniform. The style
is still used
today. Private collection.
Outer garments worn
with the McPeak uniform were the all-weather coat, overcoat or raincoat. If
gloves are used they are to be wool knit or leather and gray or black in color.
A scarf was authorized for use with the outer garment. The scarf was to be made
of wool or cotton, with or without napped surface, white or gray and worn
tucked in. Any commercial earmuffs may be used as long as they were plain and
solid blue, black or gray color. Cuff links could be one of any three kinds
authorized by the USAF: wing and star design; oval bearing US Air Force
coat-of-arms; or the plain satin silver finish. Style of cuff links was
optional as long as it was one of the three mentioned.
Figure 22: McPeak
style slip on shirt epaulet for general officers.
Private
collection.
Figure 23: General
McPeak wearing his service dress uniform with
his new style
slip-on shoulder marks. Photo taken from the
March 28, 1994
issue of Air Force Times.
Figure 24:
Commissioned rank insignia as worn on the McPeak uniform.
First band is two
inches from the end of the sleeve. Each consecutive band
is one-quarter
inch apart.
Figure 25: Out
with the old and in with the new.
At the
inactivation ceremony at Williams AFB on 31 March 93, ATC
Commander, General
Henry Viccello, Jr., (left) and the 82nd
Training Wing
Commander, Colonel Roger A. Alexander,
furl the wing
flag. Note the general’s uniform is the McPeak style
while the
colonel’s is the older McConnell style.
From AETC in
Profile (page 121) published by the
USAF Office of
History and Research.
USAF RETROFIT
SERVICE DRESS
1994 – PRESENT
By 1995, things were in
a bit of confusion for the USAF officer in lieu of the service dress uniform.
Three different types and styles of uniforms were covered by regulations. The
General John P. McConnell style was still regulation because it was suppose to
be phased out by 1999 for the General Merrill A. McPeak uniform. The General
Merrill A. McPeak uniform was regulation up to 30 September 1996 for those who
switched to the McPeak style. When the McPeak transition period discontinued in
1994 the style did not revert back to the John P. McConnell uniform. Instead, a
new service dress uniform was introduced which was referred to as the USAF
Retrofit Service Dress Uniform. The Retrofit Service Dress would eventually
win-out and be the only uniform covered by regulations.
In reality, there
were opponents and proponents of all three service dress uniforms. It seemed
most were hoping things would revert back to the old style. One has to remember
that not many of the officers changed to the McPeak uniform and were still
wearing their old uniforms. There were supporters of the McPeak uniform but, in
general, the uniform did not have the history and popularity of the McConnell
uniform. On the other hand, the Retrofit uniform is new and looks like a
business man’s uniform. This aspect has been cited by both proponents and
opponents of the Retrofit uniform. Many liked the new business style uniform
but many thought the blazer business style looked too flimsy and did not relate
to the history and heritage of the US Air Force. At present, the Retrofit is
the only acceptable service dress uniform covered by USAF regulations. However,
a new Heritage Service Dress uniform is under study which better reflects the
history of the United States Air Force in style and design.
The Retrofit Service
Dress uniform is a polyester-wool blend, serge weave, semi draped, single
breasted coat with three buttons. The buttons are satin finished Hap Arnold
style with wings and star. There is one welt pocket on the upper left side and
two lower pocket flaps. The welt pocket is used to align ribbons and badges.
Ribbons are to rest on but not over the edge of the pocket. Three or four
ribbons per row are acceptable. All insignia such as the aeronautical ratings,
specialty badges, occupational badges, distinctive badges, identification
badges and the officer’s U.S. lapel insignia are high gloss in style. At first,
name tags were not authorized. In time, the blue plastic name tag was adopted
and then dropped in favor of a medal name tag. The medal name tag was to be worn
on the right side of the uniform and at the same level of the bottom row of
ribbons to the left. Colonel and below wear regular size insignia on the
epaulettes and have a one-half inch dark blue sleeve braid three inches from
the end of the sleeve. General officers sleeve braid is dark blue with a width
of one and one-half inches. Generals wear three-quarter or five-eighths inch
stars. Lieutenant generals, major generals and brigadier generals center one
inch stars on the epaulettes.
Figure 26: From AFI 36-2903 and private collection.
The USAF Retrofit Service Dress Uniform. Notice
the thick one and one-half inch band around
the lower arm for general officer.
Written By:
Bro John Schlund, SM
1 September 2006
Updated
17 May 2007
Updated
22 January 2010